Frequently Asked Questions – FAQ – Common Masonry & Mortar Questions

• Limewash is a traditional coating made from slaked lime, and it can be pigmented to achieve a wide range of colors. Like silicate paints and stains it is vapor permeable, has no VOCs, and has a beautiful natural matte finish. While part of its appeal is the way it fades and develops an aged look, that also means that it needs regular reapplication and realistically its lifecycle is relatively short in our harsh Midwestern climate.  It would be reasonable to expect to have to reapply every 3-5 years and reapplication would have to be part of a regular maintenance cycle. It can be used for interior applications but is only recommended for those areas that are low traffic and don’t require regular cleaning. For more information about lime paints we recommend KEIM’s limewash information pages.

Here are the basic guidelines for selecting a proper repointing mortar:

• Use a pointing mortar that is weaker than the original mortar.
• Use a pointing mortar that is weaker than the surrounding masonry units (i.e. brick, stone etc.).
• Use a pointing mortar that is more vapor permeable than the original mortar.
• Use a pointing mortar that is more vapor permeable than the surrounding masonry units.
• Use a sand that is well graded with some fine, lots of medium and some course grains.
• The largest grains of sand should have a diameter roughly 1/3 the width of the mortar joint.

We rely on two kinds of mortar for most of our historic restoration work: natural hydraulic lime and pozzolain hydraulic lime. Both are hydraulic limes which are limes that impurities, called pozzolains, that allow the mortar to set in two stages: the first set is when water is added, and the second occurs as the mortar is exposed to the atmosphere. The first set is important, since it allows the mortar to attain strength more quickly and to cure in wet conditions.

• Both are sold as dry bagged products. NHL mortar is produced using limestone that contains naturally occurring impurities (pozzolains) such as clay and other minerals which enable it to cure when water is present. The mortar is categorized by the level of naturally occurring impurities: Feebly Hydraulic (NHL 2.0), Moderately Hydraulic (NHL 3.5) and Eminently Hydraulic (NHL 5.0). The most popular NHL mortar in our climate for exterior work is NHL 3.5, whereas NHL 2.0 is generally used for interior plaster.
• PHL also has hydraulic characteristics but it is a manufactured lime product and pozzollans are added in a controlled factory environment. PHL is available as either a Moderately Hydraulic (PHL 3.5) or Eminently Hydraulic (PHL 5.0). The most popular PHL for our Midwestern climate is PHL 5.0.
• Both NHL and PHL mortars are flexible and breathable enough for historic restoration, and they are durable enough for the extreme conditions.
• The other type of lime mortar is nonhydraulic lime, which is sold as lime putty. In the past, masons would create non-hydraulic limes by slaking (adding water to) quicklime, or lump lime, to create a putty that would then be mixed with sand. This putty was often aged before it was used, and the resulting lime putty mortar is soft and very permeable, but it cures very slowly and doesn’t withstand extreme weather or significant exposure. It is well suited for interior  lime plaster. NOTE:“Lime putty” is often used as a generic term for lime mortar, but this is a misnomer; lime putty is in fact a specific kind of nonhydraulic lime.

• While the term “tuckpointing” is widely used to describe the process of replacing old mortar with new it’s actually a misuse of the term. True tuckpointing refers to the process by which coarse brick or stone are laid with a mortar that is designed to match the masonry units, and then a fine, even mortar in a contrasting color is applied over the joints to create the illusion of high quality straight jointwork. While it’s now a rare survivor and something that’s always exciting to find, it was historically a way of concealing rough masonry.
• Having said that, we typically use the term “repointing” but we know that “tuckpointing” is widely used so we accept it, albeit reluctantly.
• Anyway, the question was how to do it properly. Click on the links below to go through the basic steps to properly repoint/tuckpoint a wall with lime mortar.

• Grind or chisel out mortar joints to a depth of 2-2.5 times the width of the joint or deeper until sound original mortar is located.
• The minimum depth of thin joints is 3/4″.
• Remove all mortar fins left by the grinder from the top and bottom bricks so pointing mortar obtains a direct bond to the brick.
• Remove all dust and debris from joints to ensure sound bonding.
• Perform the above steps without damaging the masonry units or building. If you haven’t done this kind of work practice on inconspicuous area of your neighbor’s house. (Just kidding! But do practice on an inconspicuous spot.)

• Pre-wet the wall with copious amounts of water. Setting up a lawn sprinkler on the masonry and letting it run for an hour or so is usually a very good way to ensure the wall is thoroughly wet. Simply misting the wall with a hand sprayer or Hudson sprayer is NOT sufficient.
• Lime mortar is an extremely dry mix so you want to keep the walls from absorbing what little water is in the mix. If your walls are not thoroughly pre-wetted your mortar will fail and/or the color will shift.
• Protect the walls from high winds, direct sunlight and/or heat by tenting the area with dampened burlap attached at the wall on the top and draped over the scaffold. A good rule of thumb is that if the workers are comfortable and happy working then the lime mortar they are installing will be comfortable and happy.

• Lime mortar does not require water to grow crystals, cure and get hard like cement based mortars. Limes get hard by absorbing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere.  As such, you must add only just enough water to make the mortar workable.
• Mortar can be mixed by hand or in a modern cement mixer.  Mix the mortar for 5 minutes, allow to rest for three minutes and re-mix for another three minutes.  USE A TIMER.
• Add water slowly as the mixer is running to help control the amount added. It is very easy to add too much water.
• The final consistency of the mortar should be that of brown sugar. To test for proper consistency you can do either of the following:

• • • Grab a handful of mixed mortar and form it into a ball.  Toss the ball into the air and let it land in your palm several times.  The ball of mortar should just barely hold together without breaking apart but it should not leave very much (if any) residue on your skin.
    • Take a handful of mixed mortar and squeeze it in your palm.  If the mortar readily oozes between your fingers you have mixed with too much water.  If the mortar just starts to push between your fingers you have a good workable consistency.

• Dry lime mixes are good for the integrity of the mortar itself and great for the contractor. The drier the mix the fewer mortar smears you will get on the building during the pointing process.  Most lime mortar pointing projects can be completed with little or no washing afterwards which saves the contractor significant time and money.

• Compact mortar into joints using back fillers. Never use grout bags or pointing guns which require too wet of a mix and segregate the paste from the aggregate.
• Apply mortar in one lift.
• Remember the more your compact the mortar the denser the joint will be thus reducing vapor permeability. Ultimately, do not over compact mortar joints; allow them to transmit water vapor and “breath”.
• Have fun with different joint profiles. Historic mortar joints were rarely struck in a concave pattern.  Lime joints look great in a “V” struck, weather struck or raked joint profile.

• Remember lime mortar does not “cure” but rather carbonates over a long period of time. The longer you can damp “cure” lime mortar the more resilient your joints will be.  Humidity and frequent misting deposit CO2 into the masonry that lime requires to get hard.
• If at all possible protect your pointed walls with dampened burlap raised 1-2 inches away from the wall for a period of at least 3-5 days.
• Keep the burlap damp by misting it with water periodically. Dampened burlap shades the wall keeping it cool and provides for a humid environment that lime mortar loves as it gains initial strength.
• If you cannot drape burlap then gently mist the wall frequently to keep the wall damp.

• We never recommend washing lime mortar joints with any type of acidic product.
• If you need to remove mortar smears from masonry simply use a green scouring sponge and water. Most smears are easily removed with the method within 24-48 hours after pointing.
• If you absolutely must clean lime pointing work with an acid use Vanatrol at a dilution of at least 12:1 with a dwell time of only a few seconds. This chemical should only be applied to a thoroughly pre-wetted wall.

It depends. The most commonly specified test is ASTM C1324 “Analysis of Hardened Masonry Mortar” which is a comprehensive test of historic masonry mortar that is generally specified by architects and engineers as part of a restoration program. ASTM C1324 includes acid digestion, thin section analysis, and x-ray diffraction, and it calculates the cement to hydrated lime ratios as well as sand to cementitious ratios. The lab test results include a written, photodocumented report with limited interpretation which we supplement with our analysis and reference to the ASTM C1324 test data for modern restoration materials.

 

Testing can be very valuable for restoration professionals but when building owners approach us about testing we generally advise against it unless there is an underlying issue that can’t be resolved with proper building maintenance and sound restoration practices.  In the vast majority of cases we can recommend historically appropriate restoration materials without incurring the cost or waiting time of laboratory testing. In situations where there are more complicated material failures we typically refer building owners to a qualified independent historic masonry consultant or restoration architect who can work on a comprehensive solution that might involve strategic testing of mortar and masonry units.

 

For a more complete discussion of mortar testing we recommend the following technical articles:

• Mortar Analysis Part 1: Mortar-Making Materials | Lorraine Schnabel / Practice Points
• Mortar Analysis Part 2: Analytical Methods | Lorraine Schnabel / Practice Points
• Mortar Analysis Part 3: Buying the Right Services | Lorraine Schnabel / Practice Points

No, and this is by design. We partner with a qualified independent testing lab to perform mortar and concrete testing and we interpret their test reports to make our recommendations. This approach ensures that the testing is performed by highly trained and skilled scientists and their findings aren’t biased toward any particular restoration product.

Acid digestion is a much more basic test that provides a general picture of a historic mortar sample, namely the rough proportion of lime to sand and the characteristics of the aggregate. Essentially, a powdered sample is weighed, digested using a dilute acid solution, dried, and then the remaining material is weighed again. Lime binder, being acid soluble, has been digested and the difference between the starting weight and the dissolved dry sample is identified as the weight of the lime binder. The remaining fines and sand are also sieved, examined, and graded. This method can allow us to get a basic idea of the ratio of the acid soluble binder to sand as well as the characteristics of the sand.

However, this process has two major limitations: 1) calcareous aggregate (such limestone or shells) will be digested along with the lime binder and will skew the final results making it appear as though the lime is present in a greater proportion than it actually is and 2) portland cement is difficult to grind with basic equipment and more acid resistant so this simple approach isn’t well suited for cement-lime mortars.

In many cases this approach offers enough information to be helpful, but its limitations should be emphasized and it shouldn’t be regarded as a substitute for ASTM laboratory testing.

There is no ASTM standard test to determine the compressive strength of an extracted sample. The standard test for compressive strength is ASTM C-109 “Standard Test Method for Compressive Strength of Hydraulic Cement Mortars” which involves compression testing a set of 2 inch cubes. Obviously, this procedure doesn’t translate to smaller, irregular samples pulled from a wall. Some testing facilities offer compressive strength testing for historic mortars but such proprietary tests rely on undisclosed methods, meaning that the results can’t be independently verified or analyzed and it’s impossible to determine how sound the methodology is.

• If it’s a white powdery buildup it’s most likely efflorescence. Efflorescence occurs when masonry is saturated with water and the soluble salts in the masonry units dissolve and are brought to the surface by water. Efflorescence can cause the surface of the masonry unit to spall so it is a condition you need to address but it is also a symptom of a bigger issue.
• While many building owners are concerned because they don’t like the way efflorescence looks they should first focus on the water infiltration that’s causing it. And that’s number one: figure out the source of the water that’s soaking your masonry and deal with it. Common causes are overflowing gutters and clogged downspouts, improper flashing, sprinklers, and a lack of drainage around the building. Using hard, impermeable mortars, sealers, and repair materials can also trap moisture in the wall system and if moisture can only escape through the brick or stone it will bring efflorescence to the surface. (This is illustrated in the photo above where the modern mortar is applied over the original, softer mortar and is forcing water out through the relatively soft masonry units.)  If you have inappropriate repairs in place these need to be removed and replaced with more sympathetic materials.
• Efflorescence will usually diminish and eventually disappear once the problem is addressed but if it doesn’t Ef-fortless by Eaco chem will remove remaining deposits. As always, carefully follow instructions and always do a mockup in an inconspicuous area.

• Remove all loose concrete and stone with a chisel.
• Roughen the substrate with a toothed chisel. The rougher the surface the stronger the bond.
• Patching material shall not be applied at feather edge thickness but at a minimum thickness of 1/4“-1/2” deep.
• Cut or Chisel the patch area to obtain regular geometry with straight edges and near right angles (no curves or sharp angles).
• Remove all dust and debris from area to ensure sound bonding of patchwork.
• Pre-wet the substrate and surrounding existing concrete until the point of complete saturation and allow only the surface of the substrate to dry just prior to patching (SSD = Saturated Surface Dry).
• Follow all mixing and placement directions as specified by your selected product (refer to the product’s data sheet).
• If directed to scrub a slurry coat into the substrate prior to patching BE SURE to install the patch before the slurry “scrub coat” dries.
• Typically patches thicker than 2” shall contain a 3/8” rounded pea gravel rock.
• Always slow cure your repairs by trapping in the moisture with plastic or continuously dampened burlap for at least 3-5 days.

There is no such thing as an “all-in-one” concrete repair mortar.  Good quality repair mortars are designed specifically for unique applications.

Concrete Re-surfacing

•     Concrete Renew – Mapei

Repairing Surface Spalled Concrete

•     Thin Patch – Euclid Chemical

Partial Depth Horizontal/Vertical Repairs

•     Red Line – Euclid Chemical
•     Jahn M90 – Cathedral Stone Products (tintable)

Full Depth Horizontal Repairs

•     Sikaquick 1000 – Sika Corp.
•     Master Emaco T1061 – BASF Master Builders

Partial Depth Vertical/Overhead Lightweight Patching

•     Sikaquick VOH – Sika Corp.
•     Master Emaco 424 – BASF Master Builders

Partial or Full Depth Horizontal/Vertical Form & Pour Repairs

•     Sikacrete 211 – Sika Corp.
•     Master Emaco S440 – BASF Master Builders

Non-Shrink Grouting Under Load Bearing Members

•     Sikagrout 212 – Sika Corp.
•     Masterflow 100 – BASF Master Builders

• Most concrete is simply stained by general atmospheric dirt. Use a mild masonry detergent (Prosoco’s 2010 All Surface Cleaner) mixed with warm water and aggressive scrubbing to remove general soiling.
• Dark blotchy stains are typically due to biological lichen growth.  Use a proper masonry grade biological cleaner only (Prosoco Revive).
• Use the weakest effective cleaning solution on your concrete. STRONGER IS NOT BETTER!
• Create test panels on every type of substrate to ensure product(s) will not stain or damage concrete.
• Never apply paints, sealers or any other film forming coating to concrete. Only deep penetrating water repellants shall be applied (Prosoco’s Saltguard).

• Dig out sub-grade soil to a depth that will accommodate the thickness of the aggregate bases and the concrete slab.

• Thoroughly pack down the soil sub-grade using a gas powered plate tamper.
• On top of the packed soil lay down several inches of ¾” crushed limestone as a sub base and pack down thoroughly with a gas powered plate tamper.  The thicker the stone sub base the more load the concrete slab will be able to handle.

• Install a base layer of course torpedo sand over the stone sub base. Spread the sand evenly so that the concrete slab thickness will be consistent throughout.  Pack the sand base thoroughly using a gas powered plate tamper.
• Total combined thickness of aggregate bases should be at least 4”.
• Install steel reinforcing rebar or wire mesh in concrete slabs that will carry moving (dynamic) loads such as driveways, garage slabs, aprons, etc.
• Pour a 4” thick concrete slab for surfaces that will accept only foot traffic and a 5-6” thick slab for surfaces accommodating vehicular traffic.
• Use a 5 bag mix (3,000 psi) for sidewalks and basement floors. A 6 bag mix (4,000psi) is typically used for city walkways, driveways and garage slabs.  A 7 bag mix (5,000 psi) is used for structural concrete for foundations, columns retaining walls etc.
• All exterior concrete should be ordered with air entraining admixtures added to help with freeze/thaw durability.
• Always screed the surface of freshly placed concrete using a long straightedge (2×4 stud works great), sawing it over the surface in a back and forth motion to work course aggregate down from the surface. Probing fresh concrete with an electric vibrator is the most effective and least strenuous method of consolidating concrete.
• Trowel the fresh concrete after surface bleed water has subsided. Never trowel bleed water back into the concrete surface as this can lead to surface delamination and spalling.  Refrain from misting fresh concrete with additional water prior to troweling.
• Magnesium trowels should be used to finish exterior air-entrained concrete. Steel trowels shall only be used on interior non-air entrained concrete for a very smooth dense surface.
• Exterior concrete should be broomed to provide for a slip resistant walking surface.
• Always allow concrete to cure slowly by keeping it damp for at least 3-7 days. Covering the fresh concrete with plastic, continuously dampened burlap or liquid applied curing agents are all acceptable curing methods.

Don’t use caulk as a substitute for mortar. It’s only for moving joints, namely the places where different materials come together, like the junction of wood window moldings and brickwork or where concrete meets a brick. The materials have different rates of expansion and contraction so the caulk is flexible and will accommodate movement and prevent cracking.

Here are some tips for successful application:

• Use polyurethane caulking material.
• Caulk should only be bonded on two sides.
• Use backer rod to de-bond bottom side of caulk joint and to set the proper depth of caulk joint.
• Depth of caulk joint must be ½ the width at the center.
• Caulk joint must have convex tooling so as to provide hourglass shape in section.
• Always use caulking primer.
• Never caulk on wet surfaces.

Here are a few things to ask:

• Can they provide addresses to jobs they performed 10+ years ago?
• Can they provide addresses to jobs they performed in the last year?
• Can they provide you with a copy of their insurance certificate showing workman’s compensation coverage?
• Are they willing to create sample mockups on your building (grinding, cleaning, pointing)? You should expect to pay for this service, but it is a solid investment to establish the contractor’s competence before they do any substantial work.
• Ask what materials they plan to use on your project and ask them to provide product data sheets.
• Ask how they plan to prepare your masonry for cleaning, pointing, etc.
• One major warning sign is any contractor who tells you that you need to repoint your old building with “good strong mortar.” WRONG. The mortar in historic buildings is sacrificial and should absorb the wear and tear and protect the masonry units and it should be softer than the masonry units. Also, if a contractor proposes sandblasting don’t let them anywhere near your building. Sandblasting is an abrasive cleaning method that will permanently and irreversibly damage your masonry.

Concrete is inherently very strong in compression but very brittle in tension.  Imagine your concrete foundation was a pane of glass and you backfilled one side of that glass with 5 feet of soil and then added rain water.  As you can imagine that glass pain would bend inward or possibly even break.  It’s the same with concrete; there is a lot of weight from the soil pushing inward with nothing inside the basement holding the wall back.

 

All concrete foundations will crack no matter what you do.  In many cases companies described as foundation crack specialists will tell you that you need to fill those cracks to stop the water.  Typically, the epoxies or urethanes used to inject and fill those cracks are several thousand PSI stronger than the concrete foundation itself.  Your foundation concrete is most likely 3,000-4,000 psi concrete.  What will most likely happen is they will too good of a job fixing those cracks with too strong of a material and when the brittle concrete foundation wants to move again (and it will) another crack will form.

 

Sometimes companies specializing in basement seepage will tell you they can install a drainage mat over the inside of the foundation and dig a trench at the base of the interior wall so when water comes into the basement it will flow into the trench and out to your ejector pit.  This almost always prevents you from ever stepping into a puddle in your basement but it still allows moisture and all of its deleterious effects penetrate your 110 year old foundation.  So, our preferred method is to stop the water at the source which is from the positive side of the wall.  The following suggestions should be applied to your entire foundation wall on all sides of your house for the best results but you can also apply these steps to the affected areas of the foundation and see if it solves your issues before doing the entire system.

 

• Dig out your foundation to the base of the footing.
• Power wash your foundation to remove all dirt and get it back to gray concrete (or brickwork)
• If your foundation is brickwork grind and repoint as needed following proper pointing methods.
• Make all repairs to spalled areas of your concrete foundation now using appropriate professional concrete repair products (BASF makes quality products).
• Strip away any old failing foundation coatings, membranes or paints as needed.
• Repair all cracks in your foundation with backer rod and caulk following proper caulking procedures.  Assume all cracks are moving cracks so we want to honor them and not patch them with anything hard.
• Apply backer rod and caulk to any seam between the footing and foundation following proper caulking methods.
• Apply BASF Master Seal HLM500 liquid foundation coating to the entire footing and foundation
• Once dry you may opt to install a secondary waterproof membrane overtop the foundation coating using rolls of 40 mil thick self-adhering flashing membrane made by Tamko.
• Overtop the Master Seal foundation coating (or over the 40 mil membrane if applied) install BASF 975 Drain board with the filter fabric side facing towards the dirt and the plastic side facing the foundation.  Follow product data sheet for installation instructions.
• The drainage mat should extend down to the base of the footing and up above finished grade by at least 1”.
• Install 4” perforated rigid PVC pipe (with filter sock) in a bed of ¾” crushed limestone that is approximately 3” deep.  The perforations on the pipe shall point downward and should be at the same elevation as the center of the foundation footing.  The seepage pipe shall be encased with well consolidated gravel and connected to a sump pit.  The base of the foundation draining mat should end just below (and to the side) of the seepage pipe so any watershed will seep into the perforations of the pipe and run to the nearest sump pit.
• Backfill the foundation with dirt compacting it with a gas powered plate compactor every 12-18” in depth.  

 

Now that we’ve mapped out a plan to address moisture infiltration we need to focus on the interior of the walls.  As the foundations stands in its current state, it is constantly getting saturated with ground moisture and the wall will dry towards the warmest and driest side which is typically your basement side.  This drying out process works perfectly well and is typically harmless to your masonry foundation unless the wicking process is disrupted somehow.  Applying any coating, plaster or parge to the inside of a foundation will certainly trap moisture.  Even repointing brick foundations with hard dense Portland cement mortars can entrap moisture in the wall.  Entrapped moisture breaks down water soluble salts that are naturally present in all masonry and these salts re-crystallize as concentrated deposits as the wall finally dries. You’ve certainly seen areas of masonry covered by these white powdery salts known as  efflorescence.  Efflorescence that forms on the face of masonry is unsightly but it’s the “sub-efflorescence” that occurs just beneath the face of the masonry that causes significant spalling and flaking.

 

If you are going to waterproof the exterior of your entire foundation following the steps above, most likely the current issues you are seeing on the interior of your basement will stop immediately.  However, if you do not have plans to waterproof your entire foundation then all coatings and plasters should be stripped from the interior side of the foundation walls.  Even with 100% of the foundation being waterproofed, it would still be best practice to only use lime based plasters (NHL 3.5) or mineral silicate based coatings (Keim Mineral Coatings) if you prefer a more refined interior finish.

 

Apply any type of insulation directly to your foundation wall is mot recommended and certainly not a method that should be used without first completely waterproofing the exterior of your foundation.  A better method would be to fur out the walls so there is a 1” cavity between the foundation and the studs.  Insulate the stud cavities only and drywall.  Allow the cavity behind the studded wall to regulate the foundation wall, its due points and moisture evaporation.

Interior exposed masonry such as brick and stone foundation walls and fireplaces are often heavily soiled with soot, dirt and dust. We recommend Cathedral Stone’s Latex Based Cleaner, which is a poultice cleaner designed for interior use that requires no rinsing. Brush or spray on a thick even layer of the cleaner and allow to dwell for approximately 24 hours until it dries. Once it has dried it will be rubbery to the touch and it is ready to peel off. As you remove the poultice it will pull the accretions off with it. This cleaner removes surface soiling, so it won’t mitigate rust or penetrating stains.

As always, do a small test panel before a full application. Samples are available in our shop and we carry a limited stock of cleaner in one and five gallon pails, so call to check stock before coming to purchase.

As the Portland cement industry has matured over the past century manufacturers have been grinding cement clinker increasingly fine in order to achieve a faster hydrating, more densely packed and higher strength material.  Traditional Portland cements were ground at a coarse grind, or blane, and it is common practice to use the blane size of relic cement clinker particles to determine its approximate age.  Historically residual Portland cement clinkers were fairly coarse, with some up to 350 microns. For reference, 150 microns is considered “coarse” and the coarsest particles found in modern cement are typically 100 microns. The smaller the blane, the faster the cement will hydrate and the more densely packed the cement will be, resulting in stronger concrete.

Since historic Portland cement is so much different than modern Portland cement, and because we want our repointing mortar to be softer more breathable than the original mortar, we generally recommend PHL 50 for repointing when the original mortar was an old cement-lime.